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Whenever compiling a list of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the proprietors utterly surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their small place securing such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider significance of this gastronomic achievement.